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Tree Guide

  • Hedge Planting – Root Balled Plants

    If you’ve been following the blog lately, you’ll already be up-to-date on with our series on bare root plants, which are field grown and supplied in bundles over the dormant season, November to March.

    This is an economical way to plant deciduous hedging in sizes up to 2m, but this doesn’t carry over to evergreens. As they never go fully dormant, evergreens larger than 45cm are best sold with some soil around the roots. Instead, you’ll be looking at a rootballed plant, which we’ll be discussing a little more today.

    What is a rootballed plant?

    This just means they’re provided with a ball of soil around the roots, secured by a hessian covering.

    Why should I use one?

    Unlike bare root plants, the roots will be insulated, moist, and suitable to be stored for longer (up to a week in a cool, sheltered area!) They’re cheaper than container grown plants, and simple to plant in a tree pit.

    Typically they’ll be moderately mature, and trimmed down as they’ve grown. This produces a bushy appearance, and makes them quick to resemble an established hedge when planted as a group.

    I’m looking for instant hedging, which rootballed plants can I use?

    Good question!

    Yew - Taxus baccata

    yew

    The Yew’s vivid, green foliage

    This is a classic, evergreen hedge plant. It’s long lived, easily trimmed, shade tolerant, and provides a beautifully sheer backdrop to herbaceous plants. It’s long been used for topiary and formal gardens, thanks to an incredibly dense appearance. If you’ve ever explored a maze garden you’re likely familiar with Yew.

     a line of yew

    A line of Yew from around the nursery

    Yew is also quite simple to maintain, only requiring annual trimming. If it becomes overgrown it can be renovated by cutting back one side each year, permitting gradual rejuvenation. So long as it’s provided with good drainage, the plant can tolerate most soil types, even chalk.

    Western Red Cedar - Thuja plicata

    Yew can’t handle excessive moisture, making Western Red Cedar an excellent alternative in heavier, damper soils.

    wester red cedars 1


    It’s a quick-growing evergreen conifer, naturally able to quickly reach 15m as a tree, but easily trimmed into a smart boundary hedge. With deep green, glossy foliage it compares well to Yew as a backdrop to herbaceous plants, though faster growing and with better tolerance of wetter soils. It also thrives on all normally cultivated soils, and is resistant to wind.

    Western Red Cedar has a pleasant identifying characteristic - its fragrance – which resembles pineapple, distinguishing it from other conifers.

    western red cedars

    A display of Western Red Cedars

    What else should I know?

    It’s important to remember that the wire wrapping is there for a reason! Even after planting, the hessian keeps the root system secure and safe. It’ll rot away naturally in three to six months, so there’s absolutely no need to remove it yourself.

    How many will I need?

    We often receive questions about spacing, and are more than happy to oblige. Both of these plants would function fine around a metre apart, though you may wish to adjust this for plants under 1m tall, in which case they may initially appear a little spacious. Spacing of 60-75cm will allow them to grow and bush out comfortably, without taking too long to meet up.

    Rootballed plants are an excellent way to get your hedges off to an immediate and effective start, while the species above are perfect options for a satisfying, formal hedge.

    If you have any questions we haven’t covered above, don’t hesitate to get in touch, as we’re more than happy to lend a hand with any queries you might have.

  • Give a Gift Gardeners will Love! – Winter Promotions on Bay Trees and Birches

    With twelve days on the clock, it’s time to sit down and have a serious think about what Christmas gifts you’ll be picking up this year (if you haven’t already!).

    Fortunately, we’re here to help make the decision a little bit easier, with a couple of promotions running on two of our most popular winter specimens, the Bay Laurel and Himalayan Birch, both of which are offered with a 20% discount right up until December 23rd.

    The Bay Laurel, or Laurus nobilis, is a fantastic, columnar, evergreen tree, or large shrub. With deep-green, glossy and aromatic leaves it’s a popular gift for topiary lovers seeking something simple to shape and prune.

    bay laurel

    It’s compact enough to make for a manageable, ornamental gift, and looks great when potted alongside doors, gardens, parterres and even less roomy balconies. Whether placed in sun or partial shade, you’ll find the Bay Laurel thrives, once provided with well-drained soil.

    It’s available now in heights ranging from 40-130cm, and head sizes of 35-60cm. Just use the code Bay13 at checkout.

    Our second offer is the Himalayan Birch, or Betula utilis jacquemontii. The dark green, heart-shaped leaves are larger than our native Silver Birch, and fade to a pleasant yellow in autumn. Though you’ll get to enjoy yellow-brown catkins in the spring, the tree’s creamy-white, peeling bark provides unique interest in winter gardens, creating a welcome splash of intense colour in the sparser months.

    birch trees

    It’s fully hardy, and will grow quickly on most soils and sites, excluding very thin soils over chalk or coastal exposures. There’s plenty of choice available, trees are available from 175-500cm, or multi-stemmed variants from 250-400cm. Just check out the appropriate promotions page, and remember to use the code Birch13 at checkout.

    If you’ve got any questions or queries about these promotions, or would even like to ask for advice on finding a specific gift or tree, don’t hesitate to contact us, or just come down to the nursery in person! There’s always someone available to take your calls or lend a hand.

  • What to Consider when Choosing a Hedge

    We’re already half way through November and temperatures are dropping rapidly. If you’ve been eagerly awaiting the planting season then you’ll no doubt already be busying yourself with ground and site preparation, and picking out some choice specimens to grow into next year.

    At the nursery we’re receiving many enquiries about hedging. Bareroot and rootballed hedging is now available and we’re setting a little space aside here to discuss what you need to bear in mind when picking out a hedge.

    Evergreen or Deciduous

    Evergreen hedging is often required for screening and for structure in the garden throughout the year. Evergreen hedge plants include conifers as well as many evergreen shrubs that can be used for hedging. Leyland has received bad press because it can grow fast and ultimately very large in the wrong place, but when well maintained it can create a dense screen quickly. Other conifers such as Western Red Cedar – Thuja plicata –  have the same advantages and are slightly slower growing.

    Non conifer hedges include laurels, and evergreen shrubs such as Viburnum tinus which has the added interest of flower buds throughout the winter and flowers in spring.

    Deciduous hedges have many advantages - they act as a wind break; often offer a change of foliage colour (such as beech which turns rusty brown in the winter after a glorious summer green); mixed hedges are wildlife friendly, offering a variety of berries and seeds, shelter and insect habitat.

    Bear in mind that while we offer Containerized Hedging in both deciduous and evergreen varieties, we also have a selection of Rootballed Evergreen Hedging, and a wide range of bareroot hedging (read about storing and planting it here).

    Function

    An important point to consider. Perhaps you wish to screen out external eyesores, or just set up divisions and ornament within the garden. If you’re hoping to create a shelter belt for wildlife on either a small garden or larger property, certain species will offer more protection and provide food at different times of year, or you may even be looking for a wind-break.

    Different specimens are suitable for every imaginable function you have in mind. If you’re not sure what you’re looking for but know what you want to achieve, call us straight away (01435 862992) and we’d love to help you out.

    Soil Type & Aspect

    Now there are a few more slightly technical issues to consider. Is your soil more acidic or alkaline? Are you working with a heavy clay or sand soil, or a moist, loamy site? Certain hedge plants are more likely to thrive in certain sites, and steps can always be taken to improve your soil quality. Again, this is something we can help you with.

    Aspect is also important. South facing gardens tend to get the most light, and eastern/western gardens will get morning and afternoon light, respectively. If you’re setting up a screen it’s important to bear in mind how it will affect your garden’s light levels as a whole. And if the hedge line will be near mature trees remember the plants should be shade tolerant.

    Speed of Growth & Maintenance

    This naturally depends on how fast you want to see the hedge develop, and how much time you want to spend hedge cutting! Some evergreen such as leylands are fast growing and do require regular maintenance to keep them neat, some hedges only require one trim a year, and others can be left to grow to maturity with little attention.

    Sizing

    Some of our customers like to see plants grow – starting with small specimens, but many people want instant screening or fairly established plants to start with, we can supply both. Bare root hedge plants start from 40-60cm for typical native hedge plants such as hawthorn, and we can also supply mature container grown hedge plants such as laurels and Photinia Red Robin at 2m high – already a substantial hedge plant for evergreen screening.

    Call Us

    If you’re new to plant selection, particularly planning for a hedge, all this can possibly seem a bit daunting. As ever, we’re always happy to help, and we know what we’re talking about. Never hesitate to pick up the phone or send us an e-mail, and we can help you with any questions you have about planting selection and technique. You can contact English Woodlands here, and there’s always a team member on hand to help out.

  • Parrotia persica

    Take a look at the picture below. You’re seeing Parrotia persica, or the ‘Persian Ironwood’, and it’s easy to understand why we’re taking a moment to explore it in more detail this month. We’re now well into autumn, and picking out plants with stunning autumn colour is a major priority, and we’re happy to say that the Persian Ironwood is truly something special in this regard.

    parrotia

    With spectacular autumn colour, Parrotia Persica can be relied upon to stand out

    The tree produces a rainbow-like effect each autumn, of rich yellow, orange, and purple red foliage. It’s even winter flowering, so manages to extend interest through small, vividly red flowers in February and March. Spring and summer are more pleasantly restrained, with light grey bark on mature trees peeling to multiple tones, and dark green leaves with undulated edges.

    In terms of planting the Persian Ironwood is fortunately easy to accommodate. It’s fully hardy and not prone to diseases, suiting most sites (except coastal ones). Preference is given to deep, moist, loamy soils with a neutral to acid pH, and the tree thrives on soils with good drainage.

    It’s native to the near east, specifically the low-lying woodlands in northern Iran. While Parrotia persica is tolerant of urban sites and light shade, you’ll find it colours best when treated to full sun.

    The tree has an ultimate height of 7-10 metres, with a flat top and spreading habit. If you check our site you’ll be able to buy a 200-250cm tree for £114, including VAT. If you’re interested in a smaller, less mature specimen then don’t hesitate to call, as we’ll have more sizes and prices available than shown on-site.

    It's a brilliant specimen, but there's always more to explore on the main site. We have a full range of multi-stem and feathered trees online, if you're looking to shop around a little more.

  • Trained Fruit Trees – A quick Guide

    We love fruit trees, and you should too! Trained fruit trees are easily one of our most popular products, and it’s no wonder considering the many advantages they carry. Young trees are trained onto a flat framework, allowing for specific forms, aesthetics and functionality.

    In a restricted space, such as small or urban gardens, they’re unbeatable. They’ll traditionally be found in sheltered, walled kitchen gardens, but look great in many situations. Formal, urban, rural and productive gardens are all good partners for a trained fruit tree.

    Shape & Form

    We’ve got two primary shapes sold online, though more may be available on request. The first is ‘Espalier’, formed of two tiers of horizontal branches. We’re currently offering these for apples and pears.

    espalier1

    An Espalier fruit tree at our nursery

    The second most popular form would have to be the ‘Fan’, which looks exactly like it sounds it should. An evenly spaced framework of fanned branches, that you can train to the height and width required.

    espalier2

    Same nursery, different frame. Fanned trees remain extremely popular, and require planting against a wall.

    Other shapes carry their own benefits. ‘Cordons’ consist of a single stem grown at an angle, with spurs coming off to maximise fruit in a limited space, ideal for production-focused gardens. ‘Step Overs’, an Espalier-like variant only one tier high, perfect for low division in a vegetable garden. If either of these sound interesting to you, don’t hesitate to get in touch and we’ll see what’s available.

    Fruit and Protection

    Not only can some shapes  (such as cordons) aid fruit growth, trained fruit trees are an excellent entry point to growing less hardy fruit, such as peaches and nectarines. Reflected heat from the wall benefits plant and fruit alike, while their compact size makes the plants easy to protect. Fasten a baton to the wall overhead and there’s plenty you can do to keep them safe. Such as:

    Hang a fleece for night time for added protection from frosts

    Netting can keep pesky birds away from your most valuable fruits while they ripen

    Fleecing can reduce rain splash, and diseases like ‘peach leaf curl’, which is spread by the water-borne fungus Taphrina deformans

     

    Additional Notes

    As with any purchase, there are a few essential points to bear in mind:

    All trained trees are best grown in the ground, rather than potted. Canopies only extend as far as the root network, and trained fruit trees rely entirely on the breadth of their two dimensional branch layout. You’ll need a vigorous rootstock for maximum results.

    Attentive pruning is a must. It’s important to train the tree to the area wanted, and keep it generally in shape.

    Remember, pollination rules apply! If you only want a single tree it will need to be self fertile, unless there are other fruit trees of the same species nearby.

    Fans must be grown against a wall or fence. Espalier can be grown standing alone as a division, such as forming an attractive and productive barrier on either side of a path.

    If your interest has been piqued in trained trees (and we certainly hope it has!) don’t hesitate to get in touch. We’ve got a number of variants available for ordering online, and being one of the UK’s largest tree suppliers, there are many other plant shapes on request. There’s always a team member on hand happy to help share planting and ordering advice, so call at any time.

  • Trees for Autumn Interest – Oak Trees (Quercus)

    Autumn can be one of the most visually striking times of the year. Many species truly come into their own around the period, and informed planting choice can produce a lot of interest. As October rounds out we’re working to put out a few more details on some of our favourite autumn trees, and today we’ll be focusing on three particularly beautiful varieties of Quercus, the Oak.

    Quercus rubra | Red Oak

    Firstly, we’d like to take a quick look at Quercus rubra, or the ‘Red Oak’. As the picture below illustrates it’s a highly appropriate name, with the trees displaying stunningly deep colours during the autumn, with orange-red to scarlet leaves depending on the temperature. It’s even refreshingly full during the winter, with browned leaves often hanging on to the tree for an extended period.

    quercus

    A snapshot of Quercus rubra’s vividly coloured autumn leaves

    Adaptable to a wide range of soils, but preferring sandy loam and well-drained but moist soils, ideally in a sunny site. It’s able to tolerate dry soils and periods of summer drought, but only after being fully established.

    A stately tree reaching an ultimate height of 25 metres and spread of 12, it’s often put to use in large gardens, parks, streets and avenues.

    Quercus palustris | Pin Oak

    Another stately tree, though only reaching an ultimate height of 20 metres, while maintaining an impressive spread of 12 metres. The horizontal branches are a beautiful sight, creating striking silhouettes in the winter.

     

    quercus2

    Quercus palustris stands out with large, lobed leaves taking on a deep red autumn colour

    Much like the ‘Red Oak’, the ‘Pin Oak’ serves well in large gardens and public areas. You’ll find it suits most soils except chalk, adapting well to moderately dry sites, and even moist-to-wet alluvial soils. Specimens prefer deep, nutrient-rich soils with an acidic to mildly alkaline pH, and will even tolerate areas which stand set in winter.

    Quercus coccinea – ‘Scarlet Oak’

    We don’t have this listed on the site, but feel free to contact us either on-line, on the phone, or in person if you’d like to sample an excellent specimen with many of the positive seen above, along and eye-catching autumn foliage and an extremely hardy character.

     scarlet oak

    A Scarlet Oak displaying autumn foliage |©Jean-Pol Grandmont

    Quercus coccinea shares the dimensions of Q. palustris, with a notable winter silhouette thanks to striking, horizontal branches. During the summer the tree displays bright green leaves with pointed lobes, turning to a dark, scarlet red in autumn (hence the name!).

    Q. coccinea is particularly notable for hardiness. The tree is extremely frost tolerant, and also tolerant of moderately dry soils, drought, and heat. It will happily adapt to a wide range of soils, preferring moist sites with an acid to mildly alkaline pH.

    If you’re still interested in trees for a sizeable garden or public space, we have plenty more large trees online, while our new Plant Finder tool can help pick a tree for a certain site. If you have any additional questions and queries, however, don’t hesitate to contact us, and we’re happy to help with advice on planting choice and technique.

  • Pleached Trees - Species and Usage

    Pleached trees are one of our absolute favourite methods of introducing structure and interest to the garden, traditionally used to create narrow screens along pathways, or as divisions within a formal garden.

    They can best be described as producing a ‘hedge on legs’ effect, which is achieved by training the whippy twigs of trees along horizontal wires, and can now be acquired ‘ready pleached’ in the case of mature trees, approximately 3m high.

    pleached public

    Formally pleached trees in a public garden
    ©Pam Fray, 2009

    This is made up of a 1.2-1.8m stem, with the frame usually 1.2m wide and 1m deep. Our ready-pleached trees will have been trained onto a bamboo frame, which can be removed after planting. This crown supports the frame during transport.

    It’s a striking effect, and perfectly applied in contemporary urban gardens, where they’re commonly used to provide privacy and screening above a fence line, with a formally crisp appearance. In more rural locations they’re effective at creating elegant divisions and walkways.

    Traditionally, two particular species have been used for pleaching. Hornbeam (Carpinus betulus) and Limes (Tilia platyphyllos). Pleaching naturally requires attentive pruning to retain form and aesthetics, with limes being particularly prunable. Hornbeam, on the other hand, retains some leaves when pruned, allowing for retention of cover later in the season.

    Other varieties are now beginning to gain popularity as pleached features, however. Ornamental pears (Pyrus Chanticleer) among them. With cream spring blossoms and long lasting autumn colour it’s a magnificent source of interest throughout the year.

    pleached bamboo

    Hornbeam (Carpinus betulus) trained onto a bamboo frame

    For those of you seeking evergreen interest, Holly (Ilex) is now commonly seen pleached, standing out with glossy winter berries. Photinia Red Robin produces bright red new shoots, providing a stark contrast to the greens and browns prevalent in most gardens.

     

    Pleached trees constitute a fantastic design element, and if you’re interested in introducing a little more formal structure to the garden any of the above would be an excellent place to start. Don’t hesitate to contact us, however, if you’d like to set up an order, make an enquiry, or are just seeking a little extra planting advice.

  • Unusual Fruit Trees – 20% off!

    We love the classics. Apples, pears, cherries and plums are all great for bringing a little colour, structure and interest into the garden (all while providing some handy cooking supplies!), but stepping away from the crowd has its own benefits. You may not find these in the local shops, but there are still plenty of fun and unusual fruit trees to experiment with for jams, jellies, nuts and deserts. We’ll be looking at a few today.

    (Don’t forget, we’re also offering 20% off until October 31st, 2013!)

    First up is the Nottingham Medlar. An attractive, small tree with a flat top and semi-weeping habit. The small russet fruit are edible when from October onwards when fully ripe, while also great for jellies and jams. It’s said to have a picturesque and architectural appearance, even when young.

    medlar nottingham 400

    We’re following up with Quince Vranja, one of the UK’s most popular Quince varieties. It’s self-fertile, and you can pick the large green-yellow fruits in October, though they’ll keep until December and make brilliant jelly. When spring comes around, you’ll even be treated to attractive blossom.

    For a large and succulent fruit you might want a look at the Mulberry, we usually supply King James I. The dark red fruits crop early in the plant’s life, and intense flavour makes them an ideal syrup for ice cream! You can either get messy fingers picking by hand, or collect ripe fruit by shaking the branches over a sheet.

    The Broadview Walnut is currently your best option for UK growing. It fruits from a young age yielding large, quality nuts, and is even slightly resistant to frost during flowering time. It’s also more compact than many other varieties, so ideal when space is at a premium.

    Brown Turkey Fig is one of the most popular figs, with large, brown, pear shaped fruit possessing sugary, rich red flesh and a nicely compact habit. You can harvest it at any point between August and September, it’s self-fertile, and even received the RHS Award of Garden Merit.

    fig brown turkey ew 400

    Finally, we’ll introduce you to the Kent Cobnut. A tall upright tree, it produces plenty of catkins (small, cylindrical flower clusters) and yields nuts with thin shells and an excellent flavour. It’s self-fertile, but planting more than one can help due to the species being wind pollinated.

    That’s all from us for now, but there’s plenty to keep you going. All of the above are enjoying 20% off until October 31st, so if you’ve been pondering introducing a little variety and flavour into the garden there’s no better time to start.

  • How to Plan an Orchard

    Gardens can be stunningly beautiful, but aesthetics aren’t everything. Sometimes you want to gain something tangible from your investment, and there are few better (or more delicious) places to start than producing your own, home-grown fruit.

    If you’re going to plan an orchard you’ll want to make sure you do so correctly. Several factors combine to decide the health of your trees and their potential yield. We’ve gathered below a few pointers to set you in the right direction, and ensure you have all the necessary information to plan effectively.

    Tree Choice

    First things first, ask what will benefit you the most. What fruit do you like to eat, and what varieties can you not find easily in the shops? There are dozens of common fruit trees and unusual fruit trees to choose from, so take the time to browse.

    It is a good idea to research predicted yield and ultimate dimensions to make the most of your space. A single apple tree of a good size can provide enough fruit for a family of four, if
    you’re working with a compact garden. Alternatively if you wish to freeze, bottle, give away to friends or even sell fruit you may want a whole orchard of trees.

     

    blog pic 1

    Planting Site

    Some thought about siting your fruit trees will help establishment, and maximise yield. Find a well-drained site with protection from strong winds, for which you could always plant a windbreak of deciduous shrubs or trees to filter it, or fencing for tighter spaces. Ideally the tree will have good sun exposure for most of the day, and trained fruit should be planted against a south or south-westerly wall or fence.

    Pollination De-Mystified

    As a part of reproduction, fruit production relies on the pollination of flowers earlier in the year. This is usually done by bees and other flying insects, and attracting bees to your garden aids this process.

    Certain trees are self-fertile, meaning the flowers can be pollinated by other flowers on the same tree, whereas others will require another variety of the same fruit grown somewhere nearby. Braeburn apples, for instance, will need an alternate variety like Golden delicious nearby to pollinate for successful fruit development. Place inter-pollinating varieties within 18m (or 55ft) of each other, if possible. Bees can fly up to a couple of miles, but this distance offers the greatest chance of success.

    There are a few exceptions, such as Bramley and Bleinheim Orange cooking apples, which we sell. They are triploid cultivars with sterile pollen and will need two extra varieties of apple to pollinate successfully, totalling a sum of three.

    Also, many self-fertile trees will still benefit from a second plant. Unlike other self-fertile species such as plums and cherries, nuts within the hazel family stand out by being wind pollinated, so planting as a group is a good idea. Growing a group vastly increases your chances of a good harvest for any species, though particularly for wind-pollinated species like hazel-family nuts.

    Rootstock

    Fruit trees didn’t evolve with your needs in mind, and as such they’ll often be grafted onto a different rootstock to improve results. This controls the growth and development of the tree, helping maximise yield while making the most of available space, and even offering a degree of disease resistance, depending on the rootstock being employed.

    By grafting to a variety of rootstocks wildly different results can be achieved.  Apples can be grown from dwarf to full-sized orchard trees, for instance. We generally supply apple trees on a semi-vigorous rootstock (MM106), ideal for average gardens subject to average conditions, and producing trees with an ultimate height of 4-5m (14-18ft).

    Other rootstocks may be available, if you need a plant for a patio, talk to us about availability.

    Planting Distance

    Your main consideration should firstly be having enough room to work. Once the tree is mature you’ll need to pick fruit, mow, strim, mulch, feed, and even spray if necessary. A cramped collection of trees can lead to unnecessarily difficult maintenance.

    For a semi-vigorous rootstock we’d usually recommend a circumference of 3.5-4m (12-14ft) around the tree for planting distance. This will provide you with plenty of room to work, while also ensuring trees don’t compete for nutrients.

    Fruit Trees

    While this post is geared towards effective planting and cropping, don’t forget that fruit trees can be immensely attractive ornaments in any garden. Apple and pears are awash with blossoms in spring, while quince and medlar blossom is downright stunning. Pears and cherries display good autumn colour, and the hazel family produces pleasant winter catkins.

  • Trees & Shrubs for Bees – Limes

    Last time, we gave you a few reasons to be interested in getting bees to be a part of your garden, along with some general tips towards achieving this goal. This month, we’re going to be looking a little closer at some specific bee-friendly species, perfect for supporting a valuable insect and introducing a little summer interest.

    Today it’s going to be the Tilia species, or Lime trees. They’re hardy, summer flowering, and a brilliant addition to any garden. Bees love them, though bear the different varieties in mind when picking a plant for your home. Some species, such as Tilia petiolaris, have an almost narcotic or soporific effect on bees. Fortunately, we’re sharing two of your best options below.

    First off is the Small Leaved Lime, or Tilia cordata, which we can supply bare-root when in season, or container grown all year round. Tilia cordata ‘Greenspire’, is a long-lived native tree, with some specimens found to survive as long as 1,000 years. You can expect to see it reach an ultimate height of anywhere between 15-20 metres, while growing slightly narrower than Cordata, ideal if you’re looking for a tall, yet slightly more compact, tree.

    From June-July there’ll be pale, yellow, and sweetly-scented flowers on display, which form a major attraction to any local bees. As an added bonus, maintenance is a breeze. Tilia cordata will thrive on most soils (though it prefers alkaline), and is extremely tolerant to wind, even when placed coastally.

    tilia cordata 400

    While some limes are somewhat prone to aphids (which causes honeydew dripping from the tree), Cordata is fairly resistant to the pests. Placed in sun to partial shade, Tilia cordata is a sound, low-effort investment.

    Another variety you may be interested in Tilia platyphyllos, the Large Leaved Lime. With large heart-shaped leaves, similar to Cordata’s smaller foliage, the tree functions extremely well as pleached screening, though remains more delicate in the face of coastal winds. With the same attractiveness to bees and resistance from pests, Platyphyllos fulfils an excellent range of function in the garden, bee friendly and an impressive specimen tree too.

    There are plenty more variants available for viewing, both online and at our nursery. T. euchlora, T. brabant and E. pallida to name only a few. As ever, feel free to contact us with any questions you might have, whether you want some additional planting advice or to set up an order.

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